Recently, the Douro and Port Wine Institute introduced a novel category in the Port wine realm: the ’50-year-old’ classification. This addition joins the existing range of age designations like 10-, 20-, 30-, and 40-year-old Ports, encompassing both red (tawny) and white Ports.
While many producers have not hurried to venture into bottling 50-year-old Ports due to limited wine reserves, Kopke, renowned for its ample stocks of well-maintained, aged tawnies, stands out as the pioneering Port house unveiling wines in this category. I had the privilege of sampling both the white and tawny Ports ahead of their release at the vintage’s conclusion this year.
The 50-year-old label signifies an age range rather than a precise age, akin to the other established age categories. For a specific vintage or single-year wine, one would typically seek out colheita (tawny or white Port from a single harvest).
The craftsmanship behind the Kopke 50-year-olds lies in the intricate art of blending and refinement. The blend’s spectrum spans from a wine aged around 48 years to one aged 60 years, showcasing a harmonious marriage of fresh greengage aromas from the younger wine with the deep honeyed richness and singed character of the older components.
These exceptional 50-year-old Ports draw from a remarkable assortment of cask-aged wines unique to Kopke, particularly the whites. With roots tracing back to 1638, Kopke holds the distinction of being the oldest of all Port wine houses, earning acclaim for its barrel-aged Ports.
The extensive costs associated with maintaining these wines in cask over several decades are substantial, encompassing not just the wine’s capital investment but also the labor-intensive care required for aging and nurturing the wines in barrels, along with significant wine loss to evaporation, known as the ‘angel’s share.’
Prior to final blending, the oxidative aging process shapes these wines, contributing to their distinctive amber-tawny to olive green hues, complex flavors, luscious sweetness, and enduring finish. Despite the premium price tag of these 50-year-olds, akin to other wines aged oxidatively, they offer the opportunity for extended enjoyment, with the ability to savor them over weeks, especially when stored in the refrigerator.
These 50-year-old Ports present a luxurious way to mark festive occasions like Christmas and New Year, promising enduring pleasure and a rewarding drinking experience. They represent a timeless tradition and a testament to the artistry and dedication of Port producers in crafting exceptional aged wines.
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