Thailand, known for its strict regulations on spirits production, is home to small producers like Onson Distillery, defying odds to craft unique spirits despite limitations. Nestled in Sakon Nakhon, a serene province in the country’s northeast, Onson Distillery’s unassuming setup belies its reputation for creating exceptional spirits.
The distillery operates under stringent regulations, with electricity usage restricted to the equivalent of two hair dryers’ power. Advertising is forbidden, and traditional wood-burning fires fuel the boilers. Yet, Onson, led by co-founder Tiger Limlertcharoenwanich, produces a distinctive floral spirit distilled from coconut flower sap, challenging conventional expectations.
In Thailand, distilleries are categorized into two licensing types: “community” and “special,” aiming to level the playing field between small producers and industry giants like ThaiBev. While special licenses offer more flexibility but are hard to acquire, community licenses, like Onson’s, come with significant limitations, such as employee caps and power usage restrictions.
Despite these hurdles, the craft distilling scene in Thailand has witnessed a surge in recent years, with over 100 small brands emerging as a symbol of resistance against monopolies. Brands like Issan Rum and Chalong Bay have gained popularity by incorporating locally sourced ingredients, resonating with consumers seeking authentic Thai experiences.
Limlertcharoenwanich’s journey with Onson reflects a broader shift in consumer perceptions, as Thai spirits transition from being stigmatized as inferior to being celebrated for their quality and cultural identity. Legislative changes have provided opportunities for medium-sized distilleries to expand, fostering innovation and sustainability within the industry.
By leveraging native resources like coconut flower sap, sugar cane, and other local ingredients, Thai distilleries are redefining the narrative around traditional spirits, captivating both domestic and international markets. Brands like Onson are at the forefront of this movement, envisioning a future where Thai spirits, particularly lao khao, gain global recognition akin to Japan’s sake.
As Thailand’s craft distilling landscape continues to evolve, the industry’s resilience and creativity shine through, producing a diverse range of spirits that encapsulate the country’s rich heritage and promising future in the global spirits market.
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